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Is FKT Fever Coming to the Himalayas?

American runner Tyler Andrews just set the speed record on Manaslu, running from base camp to the summit while using an ultralight setup. Will more runners flock to the world’s highest peaks to prove themselves?

On September 19, 34-year-old American mountain runner Tyler Andrews ascended Nepal’s 26,781-foot Manaslu in a mind-bending 9 hours and 52 minutes. The time shaved more than two hours off the previous speed record on the peak, set in 2023 by Nepalese climber Pembe Gelji Sherpa. Before that, Francois Cazzanelli, an alpinist and guide from Italy, summited in 13 hours, in 2019.

Manaslu is one of the world’s 14 peaks above 8,000 meters. These mountains have traditionally been the realm of mountaineers and professional high-alpine guides, not trail runners.

But Andrews believes that’s about to change. “I think we’re going to start seeing more mountain runners going this way,” Andrews told Outside from Manaslu base camp.

His belief stems in part from his own experience on the peak, and from changing dynamics he’s seeing in the world of ultrarunning and the pursuit of fastest known times. Andrews is part of a new generation of mountain runners seeking out increasingly bigger, more challenging, and more daunting speed records. “If you start with the Colorado fourteeners, then go to the Alps, then the Andes, the natural progression is to the Himalayas and the 8000ers,” he told Outside.

Instead, ascents on Nepal’s highest mountains, including those resulting in speed records, have historically been tracked by the Himalayan Database. But that’s changing, and Andrews is one reason behind the shift. He actually works part-time for Fastest Know Time as Regional Editor for Latin America and the Himalayas. Part of his job is to create routes and then help FKT track records on them.

“I think in the past, the team didn’t want to be trying to verify routes that required rock climbing because you can’t just use a GPS watch to track something that’s vertical,” Andrews says. “But Manaslu is not like that, so tracking it is really no different than other mountains on there, like Cotopaxi or Denali.”

When Andrews returns from Manaslu base camp—he’s currently supporting a friend attempting a ski descent—he will submit his GPX data to Fastest Known Time for approval. He also plans to submit his data to the Himalayan Database.

Manaslu and 26,864-foot Cho Oyu in Tibet are considered the easiest of the 14 8,000-meter peaks. On Manaslu, the nine-mile route from base camp to the summit requires less technical climbing than harder peaks, like K2 or Nanga Parbat. Still, Manaslu isn’t easy. The trail gains nearly 11,000 feet of elevation, requires the use of fixed ropes in many sections, and travels over steep sections of snow and ice. Climbers must also survive in what mountaineers call the “Death Zone”—elevations above 26,000—because there’s not enough oxygen for human beings to survive more than a day or two.

Andrews ran up Manaslu without using supplemental oxygen, and he did so with an extremely lightweight setup. He wore a pair of waterproof trail running shoes designed to shed snow, a puffy jacket, lightweight pants, and a windbreaker. He carried a 30-liter backpack containing bare essentials: harness, helmet, goggles, ice axe, water, snacks, and energy gels.

In 2013 he ran straight up 15,780-foot Mont Blanc, typically a two-day mountaineering ascent, in less than 5 hours while wearing shorts and a t-shirt. In 2017 he ascended Mount Everest twice in the same week.

Jornet’s ascents prompted some trail runners to take on similar challenges, setting off a flurry of mountain-top FKTs, and inspiring a new generation of endurance athletes.

Similarly, Andrews thinks the time is right for athletes to “push back on some of the conventional wisdom” for ascending 8,000-meter peaks. Instead of ascending Manaslu overnight, as is typical (“so you don’t get roasted by the sun”), Andrews did it mostly during daylight, which allowed him to use more conventional footwear, due to the warm temperatures.

Andrews also brought a stationary bike to base camp, which he said was “absurd.” But the device enabled him to get his heart rate higher than he would have while running.

But Andrews cautions that Himalayan ascents aren’t for untested trail runners. “I didn’t just step off the track and onto an 8,000-meter mountain,” he says. Andrews has been mountaineering for 15 years, and much more seriously in the last five. In recent years he’s ascended 22,841-foot Aconcagua in Argentina, 19,347-foot Cotopaxi in Ecuador, and 22,349-foot Ama Dablam in Nepal, among other peaks.

He lives and trains at high altitude, splitting time between Flagstaff, Arizona and Quito, Ecuador. And Andrews has extensive experience running at higher altitudes in the Andes.

Prior to Manaslu, Andrews ran dozens of trails above 16,000 feet in the Himalayas. His FKT on Manaslu was his second attempt on the mountain in two years. He didn’t summit the first time. “I got my ass kicked,” Andrews says. “But I learned a lot.” Both times, he hired expert local outfitter Dawa Steven Sherpa of Asian Trekking to manage logistics.

For 2025 and beyond, Andrews hopes to add more Nepali trails to the Fastest Known Times database. “There’s an absolute smorgasbord of mountain trail running here,” he says. “Really epic beautiful routes that most people do in a few days to a few weeks that

(09/28/2024) Views: 305 ⚡AMP
by Outside Online
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